DECLARATION' CRAG
(Taylor’s rock to the older locals)

A pleasant enough spot.  There are a few good problems here and the nearby large lump of rock is often crawling with people in helmets etc.

MICRO-CLIMATE:

These boulders get the sun quite late and are often sheltered from the wind. On a cool day this is a good warm spot in the afternoon.

ORIENTATION:

As you walk up from the car (you lazy bastard)  on the left is Dec' Crag (normally swarming with people top-roping the shit out of the orange corner - Little Thor  - then proudly proclaiming they can climb 20!) and in front of you is a large  boulder with a cave thingy on its right face. At the right hand edge of this  cave is an overhung offwidth which is Henry Barber's horror Brain Death, done in the summer of 74-75.

PROBLEMS:
1. Mossy wall PG
2. Fine edges M  (the holds are usually clean)
3. Classic. Up to pocket and on M
4. Up on some nice jugs after thin start G
5. Up left side of arete G
6. Descent. R  side of 5.s arete
7. Underclings to three finger pocket and up M
8. Trav. from 6. to 10. (undone)
9. Sooty (Project)
10. Brain Death. Up wide crack (grade 21) or pike trav. R along break and up L, S or D.
11. L. Right of  arete and on (R)
12. S. Up middle of face (R)
13. D. Up on slopey edges  (R)
14. The big E. Up and R passing mono (R)
15. Undercling to layaways and jugs PG

16. B/S off layaways & up arete G
17.  B/S hand trav. arete to top of boulder M
18. B/S up wee hanging arete X
19. Thin edges up nice wall PG
20. Up R side of arete to top M
21.  B/S out of cave and up line PG
22. Ace. Classic arete PG
23. Single mindedly up wall with some positive grips PG (beware of landing)
24. Up slabby face L of shallow groove or do groove as an eliminate. Both PG. Can be done as no hands prob.
25. Descent down slab with a number of no hands up and down problems
26. Undone. Low trav. R through 27's undercling
27. Wayne. B/S up blunt arete with large undercling X
28. Traverse from Little Thor to Problematic ABA (R) with eliminates at right hand end M - X

PROJECT

If none of these problems take your fancy then try throwing yourself at the listed projects like Sooty or throw yourself in the thin beckoning squeeze that is Skinny Mulligan,  the thin crack/chimney right of Braindeath. Or try a complete traverse of the Braindeath boulder. It's all been done except for the Sooty face